Testimonial

Posted on 2013-05-19 - filed under testimonials

Robin hanging out at the final belay of L'Eperon Sublime

“Great memories of spectacular days out climbing in beautiful situations; learning, thinking, developing and sharing, are what it's all about for me. Thanks Alan for adding to these memories.

After my first trip to Verdon last year I couldn't wait for another opportunity to return. Last year was a revelation, experiencing the gorge for the first time with its epic situations, meditative qualities, natural beauty, and perfect compact limestone.

This year I was on my own and wanted to enjoy some classic lines in peaceful and adventurous situations, learning from Alan, enjoying his company, and doing some routes which are outside my ability to do independently. Alan’s suggestion were routes put up in the 70s & 80s, traditional climbing styles and use of natural pro (cracks, jamming, bridging, lay-backing as well as some face climbing and pockets). Don't think we had another team on our chosen route(s) at any point on the trip which adds to the sense of adventure and connection.

We climbed Echo Logique (6b) giving me a sense of the style to come. Then the classic ULA (6b), nine pitches, including the first three pitches before entering the crack system which is sustained and physical, I was psyched and tired(!) and really enjoyed this one.

Then Eperon Sublime (7a/6b & A1) with some beautiful crack and corner climbing and the river below close to the face offering spectacular positions along with some shorter hard sections of face climbing. Then Tuyau D'orgue (6c) with a tricky start through a roof on hand jams (a little aiding for me!) then a great section of sustained corner climbing before easing to the top.

This time round I got much more of a sense of l'Escalès, its various sectors, as well as a sense of the history of its development, and more experience to build confidence for future independent days in the Gorge and maybe some slightly harder routes next time with Alan.

For me meeting people like Alan is one of the many joys of climbing. Whether experienced or not, if you’re looking to explore a big and complex venue like Verdon your unlikely to do any better than look up Mr Carne and open an exciting new chapter in your climbing journey.”

best,

Robin. (London UK)