"Alan du Verdon" - Rock Climbing Guide. Bespoke Guiding and Instruction in France's Verdon Gorge

Spring 2008

EL TOPO, an aid route which for 14 pitches meanders up the highest point of the 'Escales', was opened in 1981 by the prolific french 'thin wall' expert Jean Marc Troussier. It has rarely been repeated since, an exception being the late and talented young climber Dominique Jugy who retro bolted the upper half of the wall with a view to freeclimbing it in the early 90s. A fatal accident prevented him from realising his dream and this historic route slipped into obscurity.

Following our second all free ascent of 'Mingus', a 13 pitch tour de force of vertical slabs in 2006, Yannick Courtes and I started to look for another project of similar ampleur , difficulty and in the same style. This route, originally made famous by Lynn Hill's magisterial onsight ascent in 1994 follows vertical grey shields of the pure limestone for which the Verdon is famous. We immediately thought of EL TOPO this long forgotten line originally aided using skyhooks and pendulums to pass blank sections.

The onset of the Guiding season and studies to complete my guides diploma prevented any further exploration until winter 2008, when Yannick and Simon Aldinger newly returned from 2 months of exploits in Yosemite and Utah started to fix ropes to locate the original line, find ways to bypass a pendulum and create free climbable variations to pass the blank sections. It was time for me to get fit and join the team!

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I just returned home to the U.S. from a trip my wife and I took travelling and climbing in France. As we considered our options prior to our departure, the Verdon Gorge was quickly placed at the top of my list. Like most dedicated enthusiasts of the vertical world, I had seen pictures of the wild exposure and technical face climbing under the clear blue skies of southern France, but I had never had the opportunity to see the Gorges du Verdon for myself, let alone sample its world famous and world class climbing on bullet-hard limestone. I just had to go! However, taking into account the scale of the place and its reputation for commitment and challenging route finding coupled with the fact that I was travelling with my wife in her third trimester of pregnancy, I had my reservations. Thus, we toyed with the idea of foregoing the Verdon for other areas in the region that offered more typical single pitch, approach-from-the-bottom style sport climbing.

As I surfed the web looking for a guide who could perhaps help make my dream to climb in the Verdon Gorge a reality, I just happened to find this website. Speaking absolutely no French, I was pleasantly surprised to find someone who offered guide services in the Verdon that would obviously speak my mother tongue, English. While I have enjoyed climbing with individuals despite language barriers, I did not think dangling from a hanging belay above 400 meters of air would be the place to be struggling to communicate. Furthermore, Alan's resume blew me away. I had no doubt that I was looking at a man of immense experience and skill in the vertical realm, and I quickly sent him an email inquiring about his guiding services. Alan was quick to respond and immediately gave me the impression that he was not only knowledgeable and capable but was extremely sincere and friendly. We discussed my circumstances, and I decided that he was just the person I needed to help me achieve my goal of climbing in the Verdon. Not only familiar with the Gorge itself, he made well thought out recommendations for accommodations in the area that proved to not only meet my needs but more importantly make for a happy wife!

Alan was punctual and prepared when he showed up at the inn to pick me up, and he projected both a confidence and a humility that immediately put me at ease. I knew I was in good hands. For two days Alan Carne acted as my private guide, coach, and mentor. He entertained me with stories of past climbs, which include many impressive sends, and relationships with well known icons of the climbing world. He picked climbs, both long and short, that challenged me on the sharp end as well as his second. My only disappointment came when the time for me to depart arrived. I will never forget my first experience in the Verdon. The climbing was every bit as exciting and rewarding as I had hoped, and the beauty of the Gorge and the surrounding area far surpassed my expectations.

Thank you Alan and see you next time, as I will be back for more...

...and I've been a bit absent for a while, but in between climbing, guiding, and now preparing to leave for what will be my 5th Yosemite pilgrimage, I've been working closely with ukclimbing.com on a couple of interesting articles that I hope will inspire you to come and discover what I feel is some of the best big wall sport climbing in Europe. I owe many thanks to Mick Ryan, and Kevin Avery of UKC for their vital co-ordination and input, and to Chris Craggs for his superb photo-topos. Hope there will be more to follow! You can read them here...

Gorges Du Verdon

Clip Drop Technique

...their maturity, sensitivity and passion for the sport struck me immediately. Already aware of their individual strengths and weaknesses, they also knew where they wanted to go, which despite living in London, was resolutely on the rock! I quickly saw the potential of an eye opening trip to the Verdon Gorge. Before this step however, there was some foundation work to be done and the friendly well bolted crags around Buis les Barronnies would be ideal.

During those 3 days my aim was to work on their relative strengths and weaknesses. Starting with the essential ropework, belaying, and multi pitch skills, I quickly moved on to emphasize various technique drills especially for Matt, whose footwork, tactics, and anticipation lagged behind his natural strength and fearlessness! Sarah, on the other hand made things look easy on toprope, but on lead her strengths became paralysed by the mind games that affect us all, including the best. A session of dynamic belaying and leader fall practice would help her relax and demystify some of the perceived danger. With this structured progression we were ready for a first multi-pitch on the final day, but foiled by violent storms it would have to wait. We arranged a rendez-vous in the Verdon.

Observing their reactions as we drove around the rim of the gorge and looked over the spectacular viewpoints, I could see that the preparatory work on smaller sport crags had been perfect. Here more than anywhere, sensitivity, empathy, and making the right choices for a progressive 'acclimatisation' proved to be the right approach in this sometimes overwhelming outdoor theatre. From personal experience I know that even the best climbers can and do find themselves so paralysed by the grandeur of this place, that they are unable to express themselves. I therefore made a calculated decision to move Matt to the edge of his comfort zone and make his first route here, one on 'the sharp end'. Following his progress on a parallel static rope I knew that the 45m 6a pitch was well within his ability, and would be a safe though emotionally challenging lead. Taking into account a limited outdoor experience, his tenacity and control in such a spectacular environment proved that I had made the right assumptions, and that we would go on to climb his first ever multi-pitch route the following day.

With Sarah I would take a different approach. Less confident but already developing elegant technique on rock, I opted to let her express this uninhibited by the stress of being on lead above the 400m void. She would benefit more by being allowed to explore the technically demanding gouttes d'eau so characteristic of the climbing here. Following her progress closely on a fixed rope, I was able to give specific advice on how to optimise the strange vertical pockets and pinches, at the same time as staying relaxed enough to stay straight armed and maximise the use of her climbing shoes on the sometimes illusory open pockets. The face climbing here is renowned for cruelly exposing any weakness in footwork, hand technique, and body position. For the feet the open pockets are difficult to find and the minute one loses composure, they become invisible. It's simply impossible to 'thug' these routes!

For the final day, Saut d'homme (6a) would be our objective. This 4 pitch classic follows a corner crack system for 120m. There's very little jamming, and I would describe the climbing as 'three dimensional' with bridging, laybacking, backstep, and face moves, and an exciting abseil approach. It was the perfect end to our 5 days together, and as we parted company the next day I felt a rare satisfaction at having coached 2 people who embraced learning as much as performance.

OK, it's great to have the water table topped up, it's been too dry for years now, and certainly the roses in our village are magnificent but enough is enough! Happily despite this I didn't cancel what proved to be a superb day's guiding with the added spice of being chased by thunder and lightning most of the day. Even safe in the knowledge that there is a straightforward escape on foot 'au cas ou' , the thunder seemed more present with every ropelength we descended into the canyon, (No matter how long you've climbed here there's always a doubt as you abseil away from the rim).We held our nerve however and the rainbow to the east stayed at a safe distance. It was the first time I'd guided "Les Caquous" and it proved to be a superb discovery of an 'off the beaten track' classic. 220 metres (8 pitches) of steep and varied face and crack climbing, generously bolted and on almost 'new' rock. An aid climb dating from 1974, it was bolted and equipped for free climbing in 1992, and apart from a bolt ladder used to pass a holdless roof on the first pitch the climb is resolutely modern in character, steep and on good holds. The main difficulties are found on pitch 6 in a short but strenuous section of 6c which is climbed by laybacking, and then on pitch 5 where 6b+ face climbing avoids an often wet crack. It's an excellent way to escape the crowds around the belvederes, and discover this atmospheric and less travelled part of the Verdon Gorge.

...Getting lowered into space with the haulbag seems lonely and spooky by the time I'm 100m down, and it's reassuring to have the 2 way radios. 3 pm and everything's in the shade now but the rock is still radiating heat. I'm having serious doubts whether we can now do the link up before september when the weather cools down a bit. It would be a massacre to try and climb this thing in the sun, and until then we may have to settle for just redpointing the individual pitches in the afternoon shade. 45m long this 7c overhanging crack is spectacular. At this point the route ends up very close to La Demande and this crack breaks out leftwards to take us up into the final 100m headwall of immaculate blue grey stone. The afternoon starts well, and we both get the redpoint. Following the afternoon shade we descend another 3 pitches . 2 of these are back on the fantastic grey rock. A committing 7b+ which gradually increases in intensity with a crux on razor sharp 'goutes d'eau' just before the belay. We get the redpoint on this and the following two 7as. Now racing against the daylight there's 150m of fixed line to jug out. So there now only remains a 7b and 7b+ pitch lower down to finish, and, with "Marco's"(J.M. Troussier) blessing/benediction EL TOPO will no longer be an aid route but an awesome free climbing challenge.

...fixed lines to try and link the 7c crack pitch. It's seeping after yesterday's rain but the following 7c pitch that I haven't yet redpointed is dry. This wonderful blue/grey limestone of the Verdon is so well drained that in the dry air of Provence one only has to wait an hour and it's dry. Fabulous, climbing in total concentration and silence in the crux 12m that lead to the anchor. Another hard pitch redpointed but I still for the moment can't envisage this on a one day ascent from the ground.

...which will go at about 7c. There's a drastic change in the character of the route here, from the vertical to a modern and pumpy overhanging style. A magnificent pitch with great exposure above oceans of blue grey stone. The crux tufa pinch is wet and I don't manage to link it but spend some time working the complex layback moves to reach the wild finishing crack climbed by laybacking in an awesome position. Of the three of us Yannick is the only one to climb it without falling today. He really is in unstoppable form at the moment, and we're starting to refer to him as "L'extraterreste"(the extra terrestrial!!). Simon and Yannick change positions of some of the bolts on the following 7c pitch and then we all jug out a free hanging 100m on the fixed line. Perfect weather, cool and crisp with crystal evening light, Simon talks about bivvying but we know it's going to rain tomorrow.

...pitch and Chris was solid leading the 7c. He was unlucky falling off the last move following the 8a. He has to go to Kalymnos tomorrow but wishes he was staying here. Incredible conditions, some of the best I've experienced here with cold, dry wind. Everything sticks.

Nice of Rob and Craig to make celebratory dinner before they leave tomorrow. It's been great fun having everyone stay, talking climbing, making vague plans for future trips and feeding off each other's energy and passion. Yannick and Simon have also enjoyed meeting them and climbing with Chris.

Chris and I have to be up at 5am to drop him in Manosque, but stay up watching Dylan film, 'No direction Home', fascinating.

It's my first attempt on lead. I can feel the stress of succeeding and take 2 falls at the crux. Ahh, that feels better, should be more focused now. Yannick sends the pitch, a superb and determined effort. My visiting American colleague and good friend Chris(Kalucifer) Kalous is also getting psyched on this route and making progress. Links the 7c pitch!

...and penultimate pitch. The guys are still equipping and improving the original line today and I can hear the drill 300m below me as I hang on the fixed rope above the void trying to decipher the complex sequences of this holdless grey slab. There's holds but only just enough, requiring complex hand and foot sequences, cross overs, and a crux just before the belay. It'll certainly be harder than the 8a crux pitch of 'Mingus'. Slabs are so demanding and the fine line between the possible and impossible can sometimes be dependent on the position of some minute feature which would be worthless if the rock was only 1 degree steeper. Mentally and physically these 'low percentage' moves draw on your reserves, since when faced with nothing you have to trust to the accuracy and precision of your body placements, as well as to a little bit of luck! It looks like it should be possible. I can do the moves, but this is no guarantee I will have the strength, concentration, and luck to link them after the 400m of sustained 7b+ and 7c climbing leading up to this penultimate pitch.