"Alan du Verdon" - Rock Climbing Guide. Bespoke Guiding and Instruction in France's Verdon Gorge

Representative Climbing Experience

I discovered climbing during the late 1970s on the gritstone edges and quarries around Manchester. After the usual 'Trad#39; apprenticeship I quickly started travelling and climbing, first throughout the UK and then further afield.

Starting with the most formative, the following areas and routes are memorable:

UK: (The early years 1977-1983)

  • Stanage: Nectar E4 6b, Goosey Goosey Gander E4 6a
  • Curbar: Profit of Doom E4 6b, Moon Walk E4 6a, Moon Crack E4 6b, Usurper E4 6a
  • Froggatt: Downhill Racer E4 6a, Strapadichtomy E5 6a
  • Millstone Edge: London Wall E5 6a, White Wall E6 6b, Coventry Street E5 6b
  • High Tor: Tales of Yankee Power E5 6b, Supersonic E4 6a
  • North Wales: Right Wall E5 6a
Half Dome, Yosemite

USA: Yosemite

  • The Nose (1 day ascent)
  • Salathé (3 days)
  • Astroman 5.11c (onsight)
  • Rostrum with Alien finish 5.12b (onsight)
  • Separate Reality 5.12a (onsight)
  • Phoenix 5.13a

Black Canyon of Gunnison Colorado

  • Astro Dog. 17 pitches 5.12a trad (onsight)
  • Stoned Oven. 17 pitches 5.12a trad (onsight)

Indian Creek Utah

  • Onsights of many difficult cracks up to 5.12d

Australia:

Wenden
  • Several visits to Arapiles, Grampians, Moonarie. Trad onsights up to grade 27('Yesterday' Mt Arapiles).

India:

  • Hampi, Badami and several areas around Bangalore climbing and equipping new routes with local Indian climbers.

Europe:

  • Alpine sportclimbing in the Swiss Bernese Oberland. Grimsel, Graue Wand, and Wendenstock.
  • Val di Mello (Italy). Many visits, including climbing on the 900m east wall of Qualido, (technical and runout slab climbing up to 7b )
  • Many other crags in Italy, France, Spain, Germany...

Verdon Gorge:

  • 1979 First visit to Verdon as part of british 'dream team' that included Ron Fawcett, Phil Burke, Jim Burton…
  • Extensive experience of over 150 routes in the gorge.
  • 2006: An all free ascent of 'Mingus' , a 400m route with pitches of 8a, 7c+, 7c and multiple 7b+.(first free climbed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994).
  • 2007: French National Climbing Guide Certification (Brevet d'Etat EscaladeRead more [+])

    • Brevet d'Etat Escalade

    The brevet d'état (national diploma) and the mountain guide certification are the only two qualifications allowing a guide to work legally in France. The difference between the two is one of specialisation. The BE escalade is a rock climbing specialist and coach, and must climb to a high level themselves. The mountain guide, on the other hand, is an all-round ice, rock, and ski mountaineer.The entrance test for the BE escalade programme is by a climbing competition (minimum three 7a routes on sight) and interview based on presentation of an extensive list of experience.The programme itself includes modules in trad. climbing and advanced ropework, physiology and anatomy, training, teaching skills, and canyoning. After a period of approved guiding experience, the final exam consists of written, oral, and practical assessments.There is also a requirement for regular skill updating.

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  • Redpoints in the gorge up to 8b in difficulty.( Les Braves Gens 8b, Graphique 8a+, Séance Tenante 8a)